An Easy-to-Build, Moderate Speed, Open Boat Which Is a Development of the Popular New England Dory and Fishing Boat Types
Designed by William J. Deed
Exclusively for MoToR BoatinG
Motor Boating, April 1921
HERE is a craft, which should have a variety of uses. She is not a speed demon, nor a fast runabout, neither is she a tub. She'll take you out on a fishing trip when the sky is gray and the wind and sea both very active and she'll bring you back; she is seaworthy. Of moderate speed, good carrying capacity, wholesome appearance, and sturdy construction, Shrimp will afford all the fun you can crowd into a season. She will tote your guests and all the bags and bundles they can bring along from the steamer or railroad connection down the bay to your summer home. When you want to show off the beauties of the shore round the Cape you can pile your family, guests, the kids and the dog aboard and there'll be room; this isn't a 25-foot runabout seating six with half the length utilized by deck you can't use. This is all boat. She would make a good tender for a small yacht club; she could prove very useful delivering goods or towing scows or rafts or as a ferry between shore and a steamer in the harbor.
She is something like a Hampton boat, something like the lobster and fishing craft of the New England coast, something like a power dory in arrangement, and something like many pleasure boats. She is a development from several designs by the author of craft for all these uses, many of which were found to be exceptionally seaworthy in use on the rough Canadian coast 'way down East, so MoToR BoatinG readers may feel certain that if they build a Shrimp that they will have a successful little ship. She is quite beamy, 7 feet, which affords plenty of comfort, steadiness, stability, and liberal deadrise which makes for an easily driven hull in spite of the liberal beam. There is no reverse curve to the forward frames to bother the amateur builder, but in order to place the engine way aft and allow a large cockpit as required in such a boat it is necessary to have a reverse curve at the heel of the frames aft. Space is provided for any suitable engine and we would call a suitable motor one of 10 to 15 h.p. of medium speed, driving this craft at 8 to 10 m.p.h. Run the exhaust out at the stern. The slide over the motor has been made wide so as to allow maximum space to get into the little cabin over the motor. This is simply a shelter for the motor and equipment, not being intended for a regular cabin, but in view of the fact that many young fellows are making short cruises in their open boats we have indicated a couple of pipe berths which can be fitted in that cabin, as well as transoms and shelves. There is a bulkhead just forward of the motor which will separate any gasoline, oil, grease, etc., from the forward half of the bilges. Over the flywheel is a large hinged section of the seat so that the motor can be turned over, and the reverse lever, or the lever for controlling the reversible propeller, if either are fitted, should be brought to a point inside the cabin door where the boat operator can readily reach it. Controls for the motor should also be handy. A side steerer is provided. The two 8-gallon fuel tanks are under the seat on each side, short feed lines being required. A thwart ship seat with side seats extending forward of that provide seating capacity sufficient for quite a few persons. The cockpit is 12 feet long. Over the cockpit can be fitted a waterproof spray hood of either the type that folds lying around the forward end of the coaming or the type which has a bow frame and slides from one side at the coaming over the bow to the other coaming. From the aft end of the spray hood an apron extends to the forward end of the house and buttons along the coaming too, so that the boat can be enclosed when leaving her at the mooring. The space at the forward end of the forward seats has been left open for the stowage of bulky items of equipment.
Shrimp should not offer much to bother you in building her; the item most likely to take time and thought is the reverse curve in the frames and planking aft, but like everything else in this world, it can be done by planning. Don't try to steam bend short stock on quick bends; use long stock with plenty of length to spare on each end, then the hard turn in the bend coming near the middle rather than near the end of the piece will be done easier. It also helps to take the saw and run a cut down the frame from the heel far enough to take the hard turn, then nailing the frame together after it has been bent; this would help in bending in the frames in the vicinity of stations 7 and 7½, Run the saw cut parallel with the planking. If you do find it too hard to bend in the three or four frames there that have quick bends then cut out the shape near the heel (bottom) of the frames and then lap the frame above the quick turn onto the sawed lower section. But try to steam them in; it can be done by steaming them well, bending them carefully and makes a neater job. The frames that extend from sheer to sheer amidships should be well steamed, then pushed down onto the keel, having the middle of the frame there and with plenty to spare at the ends. Fasten and clamp down the frame where it crosses the keel and then force the frame down to the rib bands and clamp them there. By carefully bending a well steamed rib it would surprise one what bends it will make, but it must be done gently and firmly.
In planking the only place to bother you is that hollow aft, but by laying off the widths of plank strakes as we instructed in the February issue and then using strakes of half that width where the hollow comes the narrow planks will fit in the hollow and if well steamed no trouble will occur. The whole operation is similar to that described in the February issue as building boats follows the same procedure in almost all cases. In bending in the forward radius of the coaming make that forward section about 10 feet long at least and that will bring the ends well back from the curve onto the straighter part of the curve. Fasten the ends there to a block about 7 inches long by ¾ inch thick.
The cost of such a boat as Shrimp would be under $1,000 for a home job, very much less if you installed a rebuilt motor. She will provide a million dollars worth of fun, health and recreation.
Shrimp should be built to the following specifications:
Complete Specifications for Shrimp
WILLIAM J. DEED, Naval Architect
It is the intent of these specifications to cover the construction and equipment (with the exception of motor, shaft, stuffing box, stern bearing, motor exhaust and equipment, propeller, and the work of installing the motor) of an open launch of the following dimensions:
Length over all 25 feet, breadth 7 feet 1 inch, draft 2 feet 4 inches.
It is understood that, whether or not described in these specifications, all items of equipment, either shown on plans or called for in these specifications, or called for by the U. S. Inspection Regulations, or manifestly necessary to carrying out the intent of these specifications, shall be done or furnished by the boat builder as a part of the contract. The boat shall be kept fully covered by insurance during construction. Boat shall be built under cover.
All material and workmanship must be first class and all material or workmanship found defective shall be removed and made good at the builder's expense.
Keel. To be white oak sided 3 inches, molded as per plan, to be rabbeted for planking, aft end to take heel of rudder and to be tapered around opening at propeller.
Stem. To be white oak sided 3 inches, molded as per plan, rabbeted for planking, to be reinforced by 3-inch oak apron securely fastened to stem and keel by 3/8 inch diameter galvanized iron rod riveted each end over rings.
Apron or Keel Batten. To be white oak sided 5 inches, molded 1 ¼ inches, secured by floor timber fastenings. To be beveled on under side as necessary
Shaft Log. To be white oak sided 4 ¼ inches, molded 8 inches, secured by 3/8 inch diameter galvanized iron rod riveted each side of shaft hole. Upper and lower edges to be reduced to 3 inch siding.
Horn Timber (Fashion Piece). To be white oak sided 3 inches, molded as per plan, secured to keel and shaft log as shown.
Transom. Framing around edges, at center line and across top of transom to be 1 1/8 x 1 ¾ inches. Transom to be two thicknesses of ¾ inch cedar, pine, or oak laid together with thick coating of white lead. Outer seams caulked and puttied.
Frames. To be of white oak sided 1 inch, molded 1 inch, steam bent, spaced 10 inches on centers except as noted. Bow frames to spring normal to planking at heads so as to reduce amount of beveling.
Planking. Garboard and sheer strake to be white oak or yellow pine. Balance to be white cedar. All planking to finish 7/8 inch. To be laid smooth planked in narrow strakes, with tight seams lightly caulked with yacht cotton, payed with paint, and filled flush with white lead putty or seam composition. Lower edges of garboard and hood ends of planking to be fastened with 1 1/8 inches No. 8 brass screws, heads countersunk and wood plugged. Balance of planking to be fastened with copper wire nails riveted over burrs, two fastenings in each plank except three rivets in sheer strake and two rivets in addition to one screw in garboard strake. Planking to be joinered smooth and sanded before painting.
Floor Timbers. To be of oak l 1/8 inches thick secured to keel by 3/8 inch galvanized iron rod. Limber to be cut in each floor timber in line fore and aft on each side of boat.
Floor timbers in way of engine at frames 15-24 2 inches thick.
Rudder. To be of white oak 1 1/8 inches thick, secured to transom by brass rudder strap braces and supported at keel by ¾ inch diameter brass pin. Bottom of rudder to be protected by ¼ x l 1/8 inch brass. Pin to be held by cotter pin.
Clamp. To be yellow pine 3 ½ x 1 inches secured to frames by heavy galvanized nail riveted over ring each end and galvanized boat nail, one of each at each frame.
Stringers. To be yellow pine 3 x 1 inches secured as Clamp. Stringers to lie horizontally as far as possible to take seats as shown.
Floor Beams. To be oak 1 x 1 ¾ inches, spaced as shown, ends fastened to frames. Supported every other beam alternately port and starboard of center by 1 x 1 ¾ inch posts.
Floor. To be ¾ inch pine. Center boards to width of 12 inches to be cleated together so as to be lifted out for inspection of bilge.
Deck Beams and Framing. To be white oak 1 x 1 1/8 inches. Heavy beams as noted 2 x 2 inches. Between coaming and frames filling to be fitted as indicated. Fashion pieces at forward end of cockpit coaming.
Deck. To be ¾ inch white pine, seams caulked, payed, and filled with seam composition.
Planksheer. To be oak or mahogany 5 x ¾ inches secured with brass screws, heads countersunk and plugged.
Chock Rail. To be oak or mahogany l 1/8 inches thick, of height shown, secured by long screws or boat nails, heads countersunk and plugged. Across stern oak or mahogany waterway 2 ½ x l 1/8 inches to be fastened.
Coaming. To be 5/8 inch oak, cypress, or mahogany board of width shown steam bent and secured by 3/8 inch dia. galvanized iron rods through filling and frame at every sixth frame, at all other points spaced 12 inches to be fastened by long brass screw, head countersunk and plugged. Top to be rounded off. Forward piece of coaming to be about 10 feet long, ends to be fastened to oak, cypress, or mahogany blocks secured to after sections of coaming on each side. Block to be fitted for rowlock socket.
Sheer Ribband: To be 2 ½ inch oak half-round, secured by long screws with heads countersunk and plugged with hard wood plugs.
Trunk over Engine: To be constructed to outlines shown. House or trunk side to be 1 inch cypress fastened to filling and frame at every other frame by 3/8 inch dia. galvanized rod riveted. Midway between rivets long screws to be used with heads countersunk and plugged. Quarter-round to be secured at deck and house side.
Beams to be oak 1 x l 1/8 inches crowned and spaced as per plan. Notches to be cut in trunk sides to take beams. Ends of beams covered outside by A x 2 inch oak or mahogany piece and oak or mahogany 1 inch half-round.
Top to be ½ inch tongued, grooved and V-d cypress or pine covered with canvas laid in thick wet paint, edges turned down over trunk side under 3/8 inch finish piece and fastened by tacks. Edges turned up at companionway under 3/8 inch finish piece around opening.
Oak or mahogany grab rail l 1/8 inch wide to be secured on house top.
Companionway sill oak l 1/8 x 1 ½ inches. Runs to be 1 inch and these to be grooved for ends of beams at each end of companionway slide to run in. Slide to be 1 ¼ inch oak or mahogany well fastened together. Beams at each end to be oak 1 ¼ x 1 ¼ inches. Door to be 1 inch oak or mahogany with 5/8 inch panels. Door to lift out of groove in 1 ¼ inch oak or mahogany door casing or jambs. Door sill to be oak or mahogany l 1/8inches. Hasp and padlock to be provided to lock door.
In sides of trunk 4 ½ x 10 inch oval dead lights to be fitted. Forward bulkhead to be 7/8 inch tongued, grooved, and V-d cypress or mahogany.
Cockpit Seats. Framing to be 1 x 1 ¾ inch oak; tops ¾ inches, staving 3/8 inch tongued, grooved, and V-d, finish pieces top and bottom to be 3/8 x 3 inches. Cushions to be 2 ½ inch thick kapoc filled, khaki covered, made with brass grommets and in best manner. To be in convenient sections for access to lockers as indicated. Under forward end of side forward seats 5/8 inch board to be fitted as shown and space left open.
Bitts. On forward deck extending down to keel oak 4 x 4 inch bitt to be secured into stem and through 10 x 1 inch oak partner fastened under beams and through filling of oak between beams. Galvanized pin 3/8 inch dia. to be driven tightly near head.
On aft deck two galvanized No. 9 bitts to be riveted through oak filling between beams.
Steering Gear. Steering wheel to be 16 inch side steerer with drum, Tiller rope to be ¼ inch galvanized wire tiller rope through 3 ¼ inch galvanized sheaves as indicated. Rope to have 3/8 inch turnbuckle fitted. All sheaves and steerer to be fastened with screws. Rope rove so that bow turns to starboard when wheel at upper spoke is pushed forward.
Gasoline Tanks. Two 12 x 18 inch seamless steel fuel tanks complete with vent, filling pipe threaded into filling deck plate in seat top and into bushing on tank, with outlet, and strapped and chocked in position to be installed as shown. To be given coat of red lead paint.
One 25 pound stockless anchor.
150 feet of 2 inch cir. Manila rope.
Two 25 foot lines of 1 inch cir. Manila rope.
One 6 foot boat hook.
One 3 inch liquid compass.
Set of running and anchor lights, oil, galvanized.
Fire extinguisher.
Fog horn.
Rowlock sockets and pair of 8 foot oars.
Bow and stern flag pole sockets.
Bow chocks, 4 inch galvanized.
Stern chocks, 4 inch galvanized.
Bow and stern flag poles.
American yacht ensign.
Six life preservers.
Fog bell.
Portable bilge pump.
Two galvanized pipe berths with canvas bottoms, made to fit space.
Spray hood of owner's selection.
Two cushions same as cockpit cushions to fit transoms. One 2 ½ inch galvanized ventilator.
Entire interior and exterior of hull to receive coat of priming paint except work which is to finish natural.
All natural finish to receive one coat of filler and at least three coats of spar varnish.
Exterior of hull above the painted water line to be given at least three coats of yacht white, except sheer ribband which is to be finished natural.
Exterior below painted water line to receive two coats of anti-fouling copper paint. Rudder painted same as hull.
Sides and aft end of trunk to be painted. Top of trunk to be painted three coats of salmon deck paint.
Planksheer, quarter-rounds, coaming, bulkhead at forward end of trunk, seat fronts, 7/8 inch bulkhead at forward end of cockpit, and decks to be given natural finish.
Interior of hull, tops of seats, interior of lockers, cockpit floor, etc., to be given two coats of gray paint.